VIRGIN COCONUT OIL

ORIGIN

Virgin coconut oil (VCO) is derived from the kernels, meat, and milk of the coconut palm fruit (Figure 1) aka by its botanical name, Cocos nucifera. Indonesia, Philippines and India produce around 72% of the world's total coconuts, with Indonesia and Philippines being the world's main coconut oil exporters.

Figure 1 Cocos nucifera tree

Coconut oil is of two varieties: virgin and refined oil. Virgin coconut oil (VCO) is made by cold-pressing the liquid from the fresh part of coconut meat. From the health point of view, VCO has been documented as having more beneficial effects in clinical trials such as having more antioxidant potential compared to refined coconut oil (which destroys some of the biologically active components such as phenolic compounds) [1]. Physically, pure cold pressed virgin coconut oil melts at around 25 °C so it is solid in the tub but melts on contact with the skin. 

PRODUCTION AND EXTRACTION

Coconut oil is obtained from copra (the dried meat, or kernel, of the coconut), where it is present in quantities of 60% to 70% [2]. The expressed material has a water content of 4% to 10%. Virgin coconut oil is obtained through mechanical expression of copra. This oil extraction method prevents the loss of vitamin E, pro-vitamin A, and polyphenols [3]. The refined coconut oil is obtained by refining, bleaching, and deodorizing to remove free fatty acids, phospholipids, color, odor, flavor components, and other non-oil materials [2].

HISTORY

In Indian subcontinent, Coconut (Cocos nucifera) is termed “Kalpavriksha” (meaning wish fulfilling divine tree) in Sanskrit (2000-22000 years ago) and revered in three religions namely Hinduism, Buddhism and Jainism because it has multiple nutritional and therapeutic values [3]. For millennia, people in tropical climates have utilized coconut oil as a dietary ingredient and traditional medicine. In the late 19th century, its demand grew in Europe and United States for consumption and soapmaking [4].

CHEMISTRY

With a total trade value of $9.44 billion, coconut oil ranks 398th in the world [5]. Its high popularity and uniqueness can also be looked upon by its chemical composition. As shown in Table 1 virgin coconut oil is rich in caprylic (contribute to antimicrobial and antifungal properties), capric (stimulate natural protein), lauric (assimilate quickly into body), myristic acids amongst others which comprise >90% saturated fatty acids (in the form of triglycerides), most of them (about 70%) are low and medium chain saturated fatty acids (MCFAs) (Table 1) [5]. This makes VCO highly stable and deep penetrating.

Table 1: Fatty acid composition of coconut oil and other vegetable oils (Courtesy: Table taken from [6])

*No. of samples tested= 3 in each case; SFA- saturated fatty acids, MCFA-medium chain fatty acids, MUFA- monounsaturated fatty acids, ND- not detected.

As per the safety assessment published by Cosmetic Ingredient Review in 1986, VCO was declared safe for use as cosmetic ingredient even ingestion [2]. In cosmetic care products, VCO is used as a foaming agent, stabilizer or cleanser, at concentrations up to 50% [2].

SCIENTIFIC EVIDENCE

It’s important to remember that while coconut oil has a strong past in old medicine and dietary intake, unlike other oils, it holds sufficient scientific evidence and clinical trial results to backup its efficacity. Outcome of few scientific studies on virgin coconut oil has been listed:

1. A 2021 study published in Journal of Functional Foods conducted an experiment on 63 adults for 28 days on COVID-19 quarantine and were served with VCO meal as a dietary intake. The results confirmed meals mixed with VCO is effective fostering faster recovery from COVID-19 [7].
2. A study published by International Journal of Dermatology in 2014 where 117 mild to moderate atopic dermatitis pediatric patients were investigated. The results highlighted topical application of VCO showed excellent response with rise in post-treatment skin capacitance [8].
3. Clinical studies conducted in 2019 on in vitro human skin cells and rat cells were conducted and results showed VCO to have properties like UV protection, non-skin irritant, non phototoxic, anti-inflammatory and enhancing skin barrier function adding to skin protective benefits [9]. In summary, based on experimental data, the study found that VCO reduces the signs and symptoms of skin conditions by moisturizing and soothing the skin [9].

1. A study published in Pharmaceutical Biology Journal in 2010 conducted clinical trials on rats and scientifically demonstrated anti-inflammatory, analgesic, and antipyretic properties of VCO [10].

1. A study published in 2018 in European journal of anatomy conducted clinical trials on 72 rats including diabetic wound healing. Histological analysis revealed that VCO promoted re-epithelialization, increased collagen content of wound tissue, higher protein content and higher wound closure rate [11].

121. Research published in Cells Journal in 2022 conducted clinical experiments on deer antler stem cells testing VCO for anti-aging formulations. After 2 weeks of application, skin appeared smooth and elastic with very few fine lines and shallow wrinkles. As compared to commercial serum, 48% reduction in wrinkles, 39% reduced skin recovery time, 10% increase in collagen density and 121.7% increase in epidermal thickness was reported [12].

BENEFITS OF VIRGIN COCONUT OIL (VCO)

Virgin coconut oil not just another name on the list of natural oils. VCO has been addressed as a non-pharmacological therapy to overcome impaired skin integrity problems [13]. Lauric acid's notable presence contributes significantly to VCO's chemical uniqueness compared to other oils [14]. Its higher phenolic content positively contributes to increased antioxidant activity in VCO [1]. Rich in vital nutrients, minerals, and fatty acids, it has emerged as a popular natural cure for a variety of illnesses and cosmetic issues. Its versatility is what really boosts its status, earning it the title "OIL DU JOUR" [3]. Broad spectrum of topical application of virgin coconut oil are:

1. Skin nourishing and protection: VCO has found to have skin antiseptic effects [9, 11] along with stable saturated fats permitting deep percolation under the skin and aiding in keeping the skin hydrated by reducing the trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). VCO, therefore, is widely used in moisturizers, body lotion, face creams and therapeutic cream base.

2. Skin moisturization and health: Being a fantastic emulsifier, VCO adds moisture to the skin, making it smoother and softer- Thanks to the myristic and palmitic acids. Additionally high in polyphenols, virgin coconut oil has antioxidant and preventive qualities which helps lessen inflammation on the skin.

3. Anti-aging properties: The VCO comprises antioxidants such as beta carotenes and tocopherol [6] that aid in reducing fine wrinkles. There are sufficient experiments conducted in past to clinically prove the efficacy of VCO for possessing anti-ageing characteristics. Clinical experiments conducted in 2022 on deer antler stem cells testing VCO for anti-aging formulations. After 2 weeks of application, skin appeared smooth and elastic with very few fine lines and shallow wrinkles. As compared to commercial serum, 48% reduction in wrinkles, 39% reduced skin recovery time, 10% increase in collagen density and 121.7% increase in epidermal thickness was reported [12]. Enriched with tocopherols and phytosterols (proven effective in maintaining skin elasticity and reducing aging), the oil stimulates the production of elastin and collagen which have proven effective towards boosting skin elasticity, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, promoting supple and youthful appearance of the skin.

4. Cracked heel remedy: It's an ideal treatment for cracked heels because of its skin-hydrating properties. Rich in vitamins and vital nutrients, it moisturizes dry, chapped skin. Just apply VCO oil on cracked heels, and leave them over night. You'll observe a significant improvement. VCO has been tested against treating dermatitis and faster wound healing properties [8, 11].

5. Imparts strength and shine to hair: Lauric acid- present in abundance in VCO benefit hair by protecting against protein loss and environmental hair damage. In addition, molecular structure of virgin coconut oil is similar to that of natural hair proteins. Deep penetrating by medium chain saturated fatty acids in VCO aids to impart strength, moisture and repair from deep within whether pre-wash or post-wash stimulating the scalp, promoting blood circulation and potentially encouraging hair growth. Healthier from inside and with its humectant properties outside lock in moisture to treat dry and damaged hair, making it thicker, shinier, softer, and smoother.

6. Strengthen and Lengthen Eyelashes, eyebrows, beard and moustache: When used regularly, VCO’s vitamin E, proteins, minerals, and antimicrobial qualities [10] will help grow and strengthen eyelashes, eyebrows, beard and moustache. When used topically, it seeps deeply into the skin, revitalizing and hydrating the area to encourage faster growth and prevent breakage.

7. Fights scalp dryness, split ends and dandruff: Due to its deep hydrating, anti-fungal and anti-inflammatory qualities [10], VCO can fight scalp dryness and treat scalp infections by eliminating the bacteria and microorganisms that can cause hair loss, dandruff, and infection. When you apply it to the ends of your hair, it help reduce frizz and repair split ends. Additionally, the antioxidant benefits of coconut oilhelp with inflammation, microbiome balance in the scalp,  increased biotin and vitamin-B secretion which reduce inflammation, improve skin barrier quality, scalp health, and can even help with hair growth [15].

8. Controls grey hair and damage: VCO can also be applied to the scalp to slow the appearance of graying hairs and prevent further loss of pigment in hairs.

9. Natural hair conditioner: VCO helps to achieve a more understated and assured look by smoothing out frizz in your hair. Lauric acid has a high affinity for hair proteins, together with oil's low molecular weight, enables it to get absorbed quickly into hair and effectively penetrates the hair shaft. VCO thereby makes an ideal choice for moisturized, conditioned, and detangled hair. You can use VCO alone as a deep conditioning treatment, or you can add a few drops to your regular conditioner. Your hair is going to feel tangle-free, lustrous, and silky after using it.

10. Minimize appearance of scars and stretch marks: Regular application of VCO not only restores the skin's moisture but also minimizes the appearance of undesired scars and blemishes due to its richness in medium chain fatty acid content. They accomplish this by plumping the scar tissue by deeply entering it, and encouraging the formation of better surrounding tissue. This promotes the fading of imperfections like dark spots, stretch marks, and uneven skin tone. Simultaneously, the emulsifying qualities of VCO function as a barrier protecting the skin from abrasive environmental elements. Note that while it can lessen the appearance of scars you currently have, it cannot remove them.

11. Under eye-cream or eye-makeup: Dry, dark, wrinkled under-eyes — need something natural. Use VCO as a moisturizing eye cream to hydrate your sensitive skin. Simply dab cotton swab into VCO and apply under eye skin area with light hands. You will notice a change in just 2 weeks. VCO can also be used as eye makeup remover. It even works on waterproof mascara! There are plenty of eye hydrating creams in market with VCO [16].
12. Cuticle care: VCO has a high concentration of vitamin E, which works wonders for brittle, dry nails. Massaging it into your nails and cuticles every evening will result in soft cuticles and healthy-looking nails.
13. Soothes skin conditions: With clinically tested anti-inflammatory, antibacterial properties, UV protection, non-skin irritant, non phototoxic, and enhancing skin barrier function [9], VCO was found effective against skin conditions, acne, eczema, dermatitis, chapped dry skin, wounds and even faster diabetic wound healing [9-11]. A study published by International Journal of Dermatology in 2014 where 117 mild to moderate atopic dermatitis pediatric patients were investigated. The results highlighted topical application of VCO showed excellent response with rise in post-treatment skin capacitance [8].
14. Pain relief: VCO’s anti-inflammatory properties make it an excellent massage oil for arthritic joints, sore muscles, and inflammation of your nerves. The lauric acid in VCO makes it naturally antimicrobial (helping to fight fungi and bacteria). This minimizes inflammation and promotes wound healing [15].

15. Improving Immune Function: Apart from wound healing, dermatitis and cure to other skin problems, dietary intake of VCO helps in improving immune function. A 2021 study conducted on 63 adults for 28 days on COVID-19 quarantine were served with VCO meal as a dietary intake. The results confirmed meals mixed with VCO is effective fostering faster recovery from COVID-19 [7].
16. Relieve Sunburn: VCO naturally posses UV protection, non-phototoxic, non-skin irritant and anti-inflammatory properties [9]. VCO has antioxidants that fight free radicals from the sun, pollution, and other environmental sources that can cause cellular damage and premature aging.

17. Hydrates Chapped Lips: The fatty acids found in VCO help to hydrate and moisten dry, chapped lips. Moreover, it adds a glossy, shiny appearance.

18. Cheek highlighter: Apply a thin layer of organic coconut oil to the makeup and let it sit there. As it resembles your skin but has more radiance, will impart a natural shiny appearance to your skin [17].

19. Relieve Insomnia: Instead of habit-forming medication, rubbing VCO along your eyelids promotes healthy circulation and helps you to become more relaxed and aiding in sleep.

20. Deep Facial Cleanser: VCO act as a natural face cleanser, makeup remover, scrub and detoxifier. It keeps your skin smooth, silky by eliminating debris, bacteria, dead skin cells, and extra oil, preserving a better texture and uniform complexion.

21. Pet care: Rub a little VCO on your dog’s paws—it’ll function both as an antiseptic and moisturizer to heraldry paws. While using coconut oil topically should be safe, make sure to consult your veterinarian first, particularly if your dog has a medical issue [17].

22. Other DIYs: VCO is a perfect ingredient for DIY beauty products. It works well in cleansing products, facial serums and products that require a natural shine like lip balms and gloss. Additional uses include the removal of skin tags and moles, the treatment of rashes, insect bites, toenail fungus and natural lubricant during sex [17].

VIRGIN COCONUT OIL IN COSMETIC INDUSTRY

While the age-old tales of VIRGIN COCONUT OIL efficacy is valuable, it's scientific backing and unique composition is what really sets it apart from other natural oils. Whether for skin, hair, or overall well-being, VCO is the jack of all trades. VCO is unique and can be found in every industry- including physiotherapy centres, drug stores, aromatherapy, cosmetics, convenience stores, and even your kitchen! Using a random sampling of more than 11500 products listed in [16], an attempt has been made to comprehend the use of VCO oil in current market products (Figure 2). Note that not all market products are not included in the data displayed, and numbers may vary. Roughly VCO can be seen to be equally divided among Toiletries, hair products, face/body products and maximum in makeup products. Amongst makeup, lip balm, lip gloss, lip liner, lipsticks etc. congregates to 57% of the makeup market products. Its lustrous shine, light consistency and natural look is more valued in today’s market trend (Figure 2).

Figure 2: (a) Virgin coconut oil distribution amongst personal care market products, (b) Virgin coconut oil distribution amongst make-up cosmetic products [16]

REFERENCES

1. Marina, A.M., Y.B. Che Man, and I. Amin, Virgin coconut oil: emerging functional food oil. Trends in Food Science & Technology, 2009. 20(10): p. 481-487.
2. Burnett, C.L., et al., Final report on the safety assessment of Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil and related ingredients. Int J Toxicol, 2011. 30(3 Suppl): p. 5S-16S.
3. Umate, N., V. Kuchewar, and S. Parwe, A narrative review on use of virgin coconut oil in dermatology. Journal of Indian System of Medicine, 2022. 10(2).
4. Cassiday, L., Coconut oil boom, in INFORM. 2016. p. 6-13.
5. Pal, P., et al., A review on coconut oil: An essential oil for all. Research and Reviews: Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry, 2020. 9(1): p. 27-32.
6. Bhatnagar, A.S., et al., Fatty Acid Composition, Oxidative Stability, and Radical Scavenging Activity of Vegetable Oil Blends with Coconut Oil. J Am Oil Chem Soc, 2009. 86: p. 991-999.
7. Angeles-Agdeppa, I., et al., Virgin coconut oil is effective in lowering C-reactive protein levels among suspect and probable cases of COVID-19. J Funct Foods, 2021. 83: p. 104557.
8. Evangelista, M.T., F. Abad-Casintahan, and L. Lopez-Villafuerte, The effect of topical virgin coconut oil on SCORAD index, transepidermal water loss, and skin capacitance in mild to moderate pediatric atopic dermatitis: a randomized, double-blind, clinical trial. Int J Dermatol, 2014. 53(1): p. 100-8.
9. Varma, S.R., et al., In vitro anti-inflammatory and skin protective properties of Virgin coconut oil. J Tradit Complement Med, 2019. 9(1): p. 5-14.
10. Intahphuak, S., P. Khonsung, and A. Panthong, Anti-inflammatory, analgesic, and antipyretic activities of virgin coconut oil. Pharmaceutical Biology, 2010. 48(2): p. 151-157.
11. Soliman, A.M., et al., Virgin coconut oil and diabetic wound healing: histopathological and biochemical analysis. Eur. J. Anat., 2018. 22(2): p. 135-144.
12. Pham, T.L., et al., Anti-Aging Effects of a Serum Based on Coconut Oil Combined with Deer Antler Stem Cell Extract on a Mouse Model of Skin Aging. Cells, 2022. 11(4).
13. FIbriansari, R.D., et al., The Application of Virgin Coconut Oil (VCO) on Dermatitis Patients with Impaired Skin Integrity in Agricultural Areas: A Literature Review. Nursing and Health Sciences Journal (NHSJ), 2022. 2(2): p. 47-55.
14. Deen, A., et al., Chemical composition and health benefits of coconut oil: an overview. J Sci Food Agric, 2021. 101(6): p. 2182-2193.
15. RealSimple. How to Use Coconut Oil for Hair and Skin—Plus Why You Should. 2024; Available from: https://www.realsimple.com/beauty-fashion/hair/hair-care/coconut-oil-for-hair-skin.
16. EWG, E.s.s.d. Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil. 2024; Available from: https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/701566-COCOS_NUCIFERA_COCONUT_OIL/.
17. Prevention. 25 Coconut Oil Uses That Benefit Your Hair and Skin, According to Doctors. 2020; Available from: https://www.prevention.com/beauty/a20428276/coconut-oil-cures-for-your-skin-and-hair/.

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