DESCRIPTION
Jojoba oil, also known as ho-ho-ba oil, liquid wax ester, or Simmondsia oil, is derived from the seeds of the jojoba plant (Simmondsia chinensis), a shrub native to arid regions of North America. Unlike traditional plant oils, jojoba oil is technically a liquid wax ester, closely resembling the natural sebum produced by human skin [1]. This unique property makes it an exceptional moisturizer with extensive applications in skin care, hair care, and cosmetic formulations [2].
Figure 1: Jojoba tree and fruit (Credit: Sudanow magazine)
PRODUCTION AND EXTRACTION
The United States, particularly California and Arizona, dominates jojoba oil production, followed by Mexico, Argentina, and Israel [1]. The oil is extracted from jojoba seeds, which contain about 50% oil by weight. The seeds undergo cleaning, drying, and pressing to obtain the raw oil, which is then refined for cosmetic or industrial use. Cold-pressed extraction is preferred for high-quality oil preservation, ensuring the retention of its natural nutrients.
HISTORY
Jojoba oil has been used for centuries by Native American tribes for its medicinal properties, including wound healing and skin hydration [3]. Its commercial use began in the 1970s as an eco-friendly alternative to sperm whale oil, which was banned due to environmental concerns.
CHEMISTRY
Jojoba oil is unique among plant-based oils due to its composition of long-chain monounsaturated esters, including fatty acids and alcohols. Its composition includes the following fatty acids:
- Eicosenoic acid (gadoleic acid) [65–80%]: Provides excellent moisturizing properties and mimics natural sebum, enhancing skin hydration.
- Docosenoic acid (erucic acid) [10–25%]: Offers emollient properties and contributes to silky, smooth texture.
- Oleic acid [5–10%]: Skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory benefits, ideal for sensitive or irritated skin.
- Palmitic acid [1–3%]: A saturated fatty acid that helps maintain the skin barrier and provides mild protection against environmental aggressors.
Additionally, jojoba oil contains high levels of tocopherols (vitamin E) and B-complex vitamins, which contribute to its antioxidant and skin-repairing properties. It is highly stable due to its resistance to oxidation, making it ideal for extended shelf life and applications in cosmetics [4].
SCIENTIFIC EVIDENCE
- Sunscreen Properties: Jojoba oil exhibits natural UV-blocking effects with an SPF range of 4–6, making it a supportive ingredient in sunscreens and UV protection formulations [5]. Its antioxidant properties help prevent photoaging by neutralizing free radicals caused by UV exposure.
- Moisturizing Benefits: A 2018 study in The Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology demonstrated that jojoba oil improves skin hydration and barrier function when applied regularly [6].
- Acne Treatment: Research published in Dermatology Research and Practice in 2012 found that a jojoba oil mask reduced mild acne lesions by 54% over six weeks [7].
- Anti-Aging Effects: Jojoba oil was shown to enhance skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of wrinkles in a study by the International Journal of Molecular Sciences [8].
- Wound Healing: A 2011 study revealed that jojoba oil promotes wound closure and skin repair due to its anti-inflammatory properties [9].
- Scalp Health: Jojoba oil's ability to dissolve excess sebum and reduce dandruff was confirmed in a study on natural remedies for scalp conditions [10].
JOJOBA OIL IN THE COSMETIC INDUSTRY
Jojoba oil’s stability and versatility have led to its incorporation into broad-spectrum application ranges from skin care and hair care to personal hygiene and baby care products. A market analysis reveals that over 5,000 products feature jojoba oil, with a significant presence in moisturizers, serums, and conditioners [11].
- Skin Moisturizer: Jojoba oil is a natural humectant that retains moisture in the skin. Popular brands like Cetaphil, Aveeno, and The Ordinary include jojoba oil in their formulations.
- Acne Control: Its non-comedogenic properties make it ideal for acne-prone skin, as seen in products like Neutrogena’s Oil-Free Acne Wash and Clean & Clear Oil-Free Moisturizer.
- Anti-Aging: Jojoba oil is widely used in anti-aging serums by brands like Estée Lauder and Olay, which capitalize on its ability to enhance skin elasticity.
- Hair Care: Jojoba oil conditions hair, reduces frizz, and promotes a healthy scalp. Brands like Paul Mitchell, Aussie, and Pantene offer jojoba-infused shampoos and conditioners.
- Makeup Remover: Jojoba oil is an effective natural cleanser and makeup remover, found in products by Burt’s Bees and Garnier SkinActive.
- Lip Care: Jojoba oil hydrates and repairs dry lips, as used in EOS Lip Balms and Blistex Medicated Lip Balm.
- Wound Healing: The oil’s anti-inflammatory properties make it a component in ointments and healing balms, such as Aquaphor Healing Ointment.
- Sun Protection: Jojoba oil enhances the SPF efficacy of sunscreens and is included in formulas by Neutrogena and Banana Boat.
- Body Oils: Hydrating body oils like Puroleo, Palmer’s Cocoa Butter Formula and Bio-Oil Skincare Oil incorporate jojoba oil for enhanced hydration.
- Massage Therapy: Jojoba oil’s non-greasy texture makes it a favorite in massage oils.
RISKS ASSOCIATED WITH JOJOBA OIL
Jojoba oil is generally considered safe for topical use. However, rare allergic reactions have been reported. Conducting a patch test is recommended before widespread use. Pregnant or nursing individuals should consult a healthcare provider before using jojoba oil.
REFERENCES
- Nasri, H., et al., Jojoba Oil: Chemistry and Applications. Journal of Medicinal Plants Research, 2020.
- Khadija, A., et al., Jojoba Oil: A Review. Plant Archives, 2019.
- Blaak, J., and Staib, P., Efficacy of Natural Oils in Cosmetics. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2022.
- Goyal, A., et al., Emerging Trends in Bioactive-Based Cosmeceuticals. Molecules, 2022.
- Salari, N., et al., Natural Sunscreen Properties of Jojoba Oil. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2018.
- Meier, L., et al., Acne Treatment Using Jojoba Oil. Dermatology Research and Practice, 2012.
- Zhang, Y., et al., Anti-Aging Properties of Jojoba Oil. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2021.
- Alvarez, R., et al., Wound Healing Potential of Jojoba Oil. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 2011.
- Brown, S., et al., Natural Remedies for Scalp Conditions. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 2020.
- EWG Skin Deep Database, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Oil.